In the hands of the Sicilian Ciro Cristiano, pizza dough becomes a thin yet springy disc with bubbles around the edge — the result of a long fermentation and precise temperature control. He is opening Baldoria in the Salamanca district on Calle de José Ortega y Gasset, and for the second year in a row this place has taken eighth place in the world ranking 50 Top Pizza World 2026.
Here the Neapolitan tradition meets the Madrid rhythm: flour from Italy, San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo-milk mozzarella and local seasonal additions. Madrid's climate, with its dry air and sharp temperature swings, helps the dough ferment differently than in humid Naples, giving the crust a particular crispness outside and tenderness within.
Ciro Cristiano came to Spain as a chef for the Big Mamma group, but at the end of 2022 he decided to open a place of his own. He brought with him the technique he had absorbed in Naples: a 24-hour fermentation, an oven at 450 degrees and strict humidity control. Every day he personally checks the dough and teaches the team to feel its "breathing."
Pizza at Baldoria is not just food but a continuation of the Neapolitan story in a new city. Ciro's move and his choice of Madrid show how tradition adapts: the bakers use local wines and cheeses while preserving the authenticity of a flavor that cannot be reproduced without the same hands and the same attention to detail.
Baldoria has now received not only eighth place in the world but also the Best Marketing 2026 award. This reflects how bakeries in Spain combine the classics with modern branding, attracting both locals and tourists. Six Spanish establishments made it into the top 100, which speaks to the growing interest in Neapolitan pizza beyond Italy.
To try the real Baldoria pizza, it is worth coming during opening hours at José Ortega y Gasset, 100, preferably on a weekday close to opening — then there is less of a queue and you can watch the process. The menu changes with the seasons, but classics such as the "Marinara" or "Margherita" are always available.
The taste of this pizza is a reminder that true traditions live not only in the place of their birth but also in the hands of those who choose to preserve them and pass them on.
