Paris Haute Couture Week for the Fall/Winter 2026-2027 season kicked off with the Schiaparelli show at the historic Hôtel de Croÿ d'Havré. Creative Director Daniel Roseberry unveiled his collection entitled "The Abyss," further exploring the ongoing dialogue between Elsa Schiaparelli’s storied heritage and the modern era.
Since its founding in 1927, Schiaparelli has served as a bridge where fashion intersects with art. Elsa’s friendships with Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, and Meret Oppenheim transformed the atelier into the beating heart of the Surrealist movement. Today, this tradition is upheld by Roseberry, who took the helm of the house in 2019. His approach centers on reimagination rather than nostalgia: anatomical gold jewelry, sculptural silhouettes, and unexpected proportions nod to Elsa’s signature aesthetic while speaking the language of 2026.
The collection’s title, "The Abyss," references a variety of themes, from oceanic depths and Freudian layers of the subconscious to the Leonardo da Vinci drawing of the same name that Elsa Schiaparelli so admired. Roseberry translated this metaphor into a visual vernacular: maritime silhouettes featuring asymmetric hemlines that mimic sea foam, corsets resembling mollusk shells, and a deep-sea palette ranging from alabaster white and pearl to an indigo as dark as a trench. Accents of rusty coral, embroidery echoing scales and reefs, wet-look silks, and velvet reminiscent of ocean spray completed the vision. Signature gold touches were transformed into sea stars, shells, and abstract seaweed. Sculptural shoulders, exaggerated to the point of grotesque, looked like waves frozen in time. The jewelry pieces followed suit: jellyfish earrings, mother-of-pearl and black pearl necklaces, and bracelets evocative of sea urchins.
What is the role of haute couture in an age where the mass market dictates trends and algorithms decide what millions wear? Schiaparelli’s answer is characteristically simple and radical: haute couture is about ideas, not just garments. It is a space that allows for the luxury of being useless, absurd, and provocative. It serves as a laboratory for the birth of imagery that will eventually filter down into the mainstream.
The show arrives at a time when the luxury market is facing headwinds, with conglomerates like LVMH reporting a slump in sales. Yet, it is precisely in these moments that haute couture reminds us that fashion is an art form as much as a business. By opening the week, Schiaparelli sets the tone for the entire event. Following Roseberry, houses like Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, and Valentino will present their collections. Each will seek their own answer to what it means to be relevant in 2026. However, it is Schiaparelli that serves as a reminder that relevance can sometimes mean taking a step away from reality.
"The Abyss" is an invitation to dive into the depths of surrealism, where fashion transcends clothing to become an experience. It is a chance to get lost in the void only to find oneself.
