In the laboratories of Nice, scientists conducted a large-scale screening of the local flora — more than one and a half thousand plant species — in search of natural molecules capable of replacing synthetic components in modern cosmetics. The results of the study, published in the journal Chemistry & Biodiversity, show that the strict regulatory requirements of the Chinese market and the standards of the European Union are compelling researchers to take a closer look at the biodiversity growing literally under their feet.
Demand for natural ingredients is growing, but consumers expect not merely organic origin, but real efficacy. Scientists from the Université Côte d'Azur, the Shiseido innovation center and partner laboratories meticulously selected 1614 plant species — already approved by Chinese regulators. Using HPLC–DAD/ELSD chromatographic profiling, they obtained chemical "fingerprints" of the dry extracts and compared them according to two criteria: biological activity and novelty (absence from current cosmetic formulas).
After several stages of rigorous selection, only eighteen candidates made the list. Four species stood out especially vividly: the leaves of old man's beard (Clematis vitalba), the buds of the service tree (Sorbus domestica), the leaves of the common hazel (Corylus avellana) and the above-ground parts of the cowslip (Primula veris). All of them have long been familiar to French meadows and forests, are widely used in traditional medicine, yet their potential in modern cosmetics has remained practically unstudied.
The scientists emphasize a non-obvious conclusion: controlled cultivation methods can markedly enhance the beneficial properties of plants that do not manifest fully in the wild. As a model example, they chose borage (Borago officinalis): with precise temperature control and the use of rotating hydroponics, its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity increased by several orders of magnitude. This opens the way to sustainable production, in which it is possible to obtain a high concentration of bioactive substances without depleting wild populations.
The chromatographic method proved effective for rapidly comparing hundreds of samples; however, reliable identification of the active substances requires additional analyses — mass spectrometry and bioassay-guided fractionation. Only with such a comprehensive approach can a direct link be established between the chemical profile and a specific effect on the skin — anti-aging, anti-inflammatory or antioxidant.
The study demonstrates a strategic opportunity: local biodiversity can become the foundation of global cosmetic solutions if a balance is maintained between regulatory requirements, proven efficacy and environmental responsibility. At the consumer level, the simplest way to support such research is to favor cosmetics with transparent ingredient origins and to choose brands that invest in local and sustainable raw materials.
