3,500-Year-Old Cheese Reveals Ancient Dairy Practices in Xinjiang

In a remarkable discovery at an ancient burial site in Xinjiang, northwestern China, researchers have unearthed the oldest known cheese, dating back approximately 3,500 years. This ancient cheese, found around the necks of three bodies, offers unprecedented insights into early dairy practices and human culture, as detailed in a study published on September 25 in the journal Cell.

Shevan Wilkins, a biomolecular archaeologist at the University of Basel, highlights the rarity of such well-preserved cheese, emphasizing its significance compared to older dairy residues found in pottery. The cheese, identified as kefir, was made using a complex mixture of bacteria, yeast, and fungi, similar to modern kefir, a fermented dairy product.

The analysis revealed that the cheese was made from both cow and goat milk, with the goat variety linked to a breed common in Eurasia during the Bronze Age. This finding suggests two distinct geographic origins for kefir-making: one in Xinjiang and another in the Caucasus region, indicating the spread of dairy practices through nomadic trade routes across the Eurasian steppe.

The Xiaohe cemetery, where the cheese was discovered, is notable for its unique environmental conditions that led to the natural mummification of the bodies, preserving hair, skin, and the ancient cheese necklaces. Christina Warriner, a biomolecular archaeologist at Harvard University, underscores the importance of such discoveries in understanding the microbial diversity lost over millennia.

While the findings are groundbreaking, some experts, including Warriner, caution that more data is needed to fully understand the historical trajectories of these dairy practices. Nonetheless, the research underscores the integral role of dairy in human survival, particularly in harsh environments like the Asian steppe, suggesting that dairying technology may predate pottery by thousands of years.

As for the taste of this ancient cheese, it likely had a sour flavor profile, similar to contemporary Asian dairy products. Wilkins expresses a desire to experience the flavors of the past, highlighting the fascinating intersection of food, culture, and history.

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