The fashion industry has been significantly impacted by shifts in global trade policies, particularly those initiated by the US under President Donald Trump. The aim was to encourage manufacturing back to the United States and protect local jobs. However, the ultra-fast fashion model, known for its rapid response to trends, has adapted to these changes in unexpected ways.
Many clothing companies, facing tariffs on Chinese imports, initially moved production to countries like Vietnam and Cambodia. The subsequent imposition of "reciprocal" tariffs led to a shift in sourcing strategies. Fashion brands now prioritize the lowest total cost, regardless of location, resulting in the exploitation of labor in countries with lower tariffs and labor costs.
Platforms like Shein and Temu have thrived by offering trend-driven clothing at extremely low prices. Much of Shein's production occurs in Guangzhou, China, where workers often endure long hours under poor conditions. While tariffs were intended to boost American manufacturing, they have instead rerouted production to countries with even lower labor costs, such as the Philippines.
The environmental impact of fast fashion is well-documented. Trade policies, coupled with a retreat from climate commitments, have worsened environmental harms. The irony is that the tariffs meant to protect American workers have, in some cases, worsened conditions for workers elsewhere.
The core of the problem is structural. The entire business model is built on exploitation and environmental damage. Governments can play a role in regulating supply chains and enforcing labor standards. Brands need to take responsibility for the conditions in their factories. Consumers also have a role to play. Recognizing the hidden costs of cheap clothing is a crucial first step.
Alternatives to fast fashion are emerging. Clothing rentals and charity-run op shops offer more sustainable options. For example, Australia's new Seamless scheme aims to make fashion brands responsible for the full life of the clothes they sell. Ethical brands are demonstrating a better way by offering clothes made under fairer conditions and with sustainable materials.
Trump's trade rules, while aiming to re-balance global trade, have exposed the fragility and exploitative nature of the ultra-fast fashion system. Unless the systemic inequalities in fashion production are addressed, the true cost of cheap clothing will continue to be borne by those least able to afford it.