Michael Rider, the new artistic director of Celine, presented his debut collection for the Parisian fashion house on July 6, 2025. The show took place at Celine's headquarters, 16 rue Vivienne in Paris, and was held despite heavy rain.
Celebrities in attendance included actress Naomi Watts, who wore a short gingham dress with a draped leather jacket. French couple Mélanie Thierry and Raphaël also drew attention, with Thierry in a blue striped shirt tucked into high-waisted jeans and black pumps, while Raphaël wore faded jeans, a white t-shirt, and a checkered blazer. Singer Alanis Morissette also attended, sporting a sleek look in leather pants and a floral blouse.
Succeeding Hedi Slimane, who led Celine from 2018 to 2024, Michael Rider's Spring/Summer 2026 collection paid homage to the house's heritage while introducing his own vision. The collection blended elements of the 60s and 70s, the aesthetic of Phoebe Philo, with whom Rider worked for nine years, and the influence of Hedi Slimane. Silhouettes included oversized suits, straight-leg trousers, slim jeans, cardigans draped over the shoulders, silk scarves, and ties knotted around the neck, completed with ballerinas. Quirky details, such as an oversized blazer, a jacket sleeve adorned with metal amulets, a dress made entirely of labels, and an accumulation of XXL chain necklaces, brought a touch of extravagance and humor to the collection. Bright color accents, like a bright red jacket, a sky blue scarf, or a fir green scarf, energized the ensembles.
A notable return was the Luggage Phantom bag, an icon of the 2010s launched by Phoebe Philo. Reappearing on the runway of Michael Rider's first show, it was presented in a new, wider, and less tall version, inspired by the East-West model.
Michael Rider, 42, previously worked at Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière and then joined Celine as creative director of ready-to-wear from 2008 to 2018, under Phoebe Philo. After Philo's departure, he took over the creative direction of the Polo Ralph Lauren line. His return to Celine marks a new era for the house, with a focus on a more understated and sophisticated style, reminiscent of the Philo era.